ORGUEIL HIDEHIRO NISHIJIMA

This post is also available in: Ita

HIDEHIRO SAN, WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE IN THE CLOTHING-DRESSMAKING STYLE BETWEEN JAPAN AND ITALY, AFTER THE COLLABORATION WITH ERAL 55?

The fundamental difference regarding Italy’s the beauty in the lines, in the cut of a dress or a garment, besides details well-worked with great passion; Orgueil line is inspired by the early 19th century in America, and after this important collaboration with Ermanno Lazzarin we tried to combine the classic American workwear with the inimitable Italian elegant style. It’s a very exciting union also because this fusion unconsciously happened back in the days due to the Italian and European immigrants in general.

DURING YOUR SIDE BY SIDE WORK WITH ERMANNO, WHAT DO YOU THINK YOU’VE LEARNT FROM BOTH PARTS?

The most remarkable teaching he gave me during this experience is the fit of jackets, much smoother and with the proper volumes on the body, in order to highlight shapes with a good taste; actually Ermanno is for sure at a higher sartorial level, so he focuses a lot on our brand’s fabrics… the same fabrics that represented the starting point for this joint-venture.

WHAT ARE THE PARTICULARS ERMANNO SUGGESTED YOU THAT MOSTLY FASCINATED YOU?

The ‘cleanness’ in stitching, in order to gift the garment with a more sartorial flavour; the length of coats and jackets, shorter than the usual standard we use; the different display set-ups inside our stores for the different kinds of goods, and in the end the washing types. Ermanno suggested us to wash the fabric after the cut – to make it softer to the touch – and a second washing of the end garment – to get a used-flavoured look, a classic on the Italian market.

AND REGARDING YOUR PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, HOW LONG YOU’VE BEEN WORKING AS A DESIGNER FOR ORGUEIL AND HOW DID YOU GET THERE?

Since three years I’m a designer for Orgueil, before I was already part of the company handling sales for the Japanese retail stores carrying Studio D’Artisan… but later on I felt the need to give SD’A classic style a new different feeling and so I started designing the unedited Orgueil line. All that drawing inspiration from vintage items, harking back to historical garments and re-working them to give our pieces a more updated taste.

WHAT’S THE FABRICS YOU PREFER TO WORK WITH?

Denim, definitely… as you know well you only have to change the origin of the cotton used by shuttle looms to weave selvedge denim fabric, and the result completely changes – softer, thicker, rougher, thinner; the touch radically changes depending on the yarn, it’s this wide variety indeed that we get from just a type of fabric that particularly fascinates me.

WHAT’S THE MOST HARD TO MAKE GARMENT IN YOUR OPINION?

Not being expert in sartorial works, I’d say for sure the classic blazer silhouette jacket – there are so many parts to take care of, even if recently I’ve been studying and learning a lot on the matter from the denim world.

WHAT ABOUT THE ACCESSORY TO FINISH OFF ORGUEIL’S LOOK?

The hat is the cherry on top over an Orgueil outfit!

FINALLY HOW DO YOU MANAGE TO BRING ORGUEIL STYLE IN THE EUROPEAN MARKET AND ESPECIALLY IN THE ITALIAN ONE?

In the latest period we’ve learnt a lot from Europe in terms of style in clothing, facing the argument in general for Japan; I’d like to understand in a better way what can be the needs of the different countries as to please the different requirements, and why not also to create collections dedicated to the several nations.

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